Club Guidance
UIAA INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN
CODE
As a response to the growth
of mountaineering the world body for mountaineers, the UIAA, have developed
a simple, but very worthwhile code, which the BMC Access and Conservation
Committee strongly commend.
-
Observe restrictions and access
agreement negotiated by National Mountaineering Federations, and avoid
any actions which might endanger access
-
Do not disturb nesting birds
or other wildlife. Help protect flowers and respect sites of geological
or other scientific interest
-
Avoid actions which cause unnecessary
erosion (such as taking shortcuts on footpaths) and do not leave unnecessary
way marks
-
Do not disturb livestock or
damage crops or trees
-
Do not leave any rubbish. Keep
campsites clean. Avoid all risk of fire
-
Where toilet facilities are
not available, dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (ie under rocks,
soil, sand, or in deep crevasses, away from water supplies, paths or climbs
-
Do not pollute fresh water supplies.
Avoid any unnecessary pollution to the snow pack
-
Respect established climbing
traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons or bolts
etc. Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment
-
In mountain areas use motorised
transport sparingly and park considerately. Make us of public transport
if practical.
On any excursions to remote
or high mountains observe the UIAA Kathmandu Declaration and Ethical Code
for Expeditions.
Analysis of a test fall
Force v.s. time data for
drop tests using climbing rope has been collected and made available on
the net by Hal Murray (murray@pa.dec.com).
I find analyzing this data is fascinating, even though it has little relevance
to my use of rope in climbing. The fact is that the UIAA and some newer
organizations have developed practical tests that provide a high level
of confidence that ropes, as used in climbing, will do their part help
heep us alive and healthy - understanding why ropes behave this way is
not necessary for climbers.
Still, I'm a nerd and can't
resist fiddling with data. So here goes...
Data for several experiments
are available. Most of these include prusiks, force limiters, or other
devices that mask the rope's properties. I've picked the first data
set for analysis. The commentary supplied with this data reads:
SamplesPerSecond 2500
DateTime 2/12/89 11-04
NumberOfSamples 5000
Peak 1450
Info 10 ft, fall factor 1, old climbing rope, good condition
This data is graphed in green
below with force in pounds on the y axis plotted against sample number
on the x axis. Total elapsed time is 2 seconds.
The red line is position
data computed by estimating the mass, m, of the dropped object, and the
time when it was dropped, t0=0, then updating its position,
yt, and velocity, vt, each 1/2500th of a second with
the rule:
an = fn/m + g
vn = vn-1 + an / 2500
yn = yn-1 + vn / 2500
where fn
is the nth force (shifted depending on starting time). Ignore the units
for the position graph - distances were scaled to fit on the same graph
as force. The total distance shown is approximately 1.5 meters and roughly
corresponds to rope stretch.
Clik
here to show the chart
Very nice, so far. The forces
look reasonable, and we see a nicely damped oscillation as the mass comes
to rest. The force curve is a bit noisy along the initial rise and we could
speculate about the cause (is it knot tightening or other internal rope-friction
releasing?).
To learn more, I plotted
force vs. distance fallen (rope stretch). Force in pounds is on the y axis,
and distance in meters on the x axis.
Click
here to show the chart
I think this plot is way cool,
but keep in mind that the position of the inner spirals can be moved by
assuming alternate initial conditions. I chose initial conditions that
resulted in a sensible position vs. time plot. Unfortunately, I don't have
a record of the initial conditions used to generate the position plots.
Anyway, I think it is fair
to conclude that this plot is reasonably close to reality for our purposes.
Here are some observations:
-
There is a slow ramping up at
low forces on the first bounce: Ropes behave differently for loads that
generate low forces (top rope falls) and those that generate high forces.
Due to the inelastic nature of climbing rope, I wouldn't try extrapolating
TR fall curves from this data
-
Some inelastic stretching occurs:
Notice how each loop is shifter to the right - allowing more total stretch
for a given force on each successive bounce
-
Ropes act like springs during
elongation, but not contraction: The graph is essentially linear for each
stretching phase
-
The effective spring constant
increases with each bounce: Each linear successive region is steeper
-
There is a small error in my
initial conditions: The data should spiral inward without the last segment
crossing the previous bounce. Correcting this would shift the graph slightly
to the right, but otherwise not appreciably affect it
-
The noise in the force during
the first bounce seems to be mostly positive, increasing the force above
what a simple rope model might suggest. [Either that, or the simple model
I'm imagining is wrong!].
Comments, discussion, etc. are
welcome, but not spam ! I can be reached at cline+@cs.cmu.edu
Climbing Grades
In Belgium we generally use
the French grading system. On some classic routes however, the older alpine
quotations (UIAA) are used. The following table gives an overview of how
these systems compare to other systems.
Some important notes :
-
The different systems can not
always be easily "translated". The table must therefore be considered as
indicative
-
The English system is rather
complicated and consists of two grades: the first one for the severity
of the whole route (physically and mentally), the second one for the most
difficult move
-
All ratings are subjective
!!!
| Climbing Grading
Systems |
| French |
UIAA |
English |
American |
Australian |
German |
| 2 |
II |
Diff (D) |
5.2 -5.3 |
10 |
I |
| 3 |
III |
Very Diff (VD) |
5.4 |
12 |
II/III |
| 4 |
IV |
Severe (S) |
5.5 |
14 |
III/IV |
| 5a |
V-/V |
Hard Severe (HS) |
5.6 |
15 |
IV |
| 5b |
V/V+ |
Very Severe (VS) |
5.8 |
16 |
V |
| 5c |
VI- |
HVS |
5.9 |
17/18 |
VI |
| 6a |
VI |
E1,5b |
5.10b |
19 |
VII- |
| VI+ |
E2,5c |
5.10c |
21 |
VII |
| 6b |
VII- |
E3,5c |
5.10d |
22 |
VII+ |
| VII |
E3,6a |
5.11b |
23 |
VIII- |
| 6c |
VII+ |
E4,6a |
5.11c |
24 |
VIII |
| 7a |
VIII- |
E4,6b |
5.11d |
25 |
| VIII |
E5,6a |
5.12a |
26 |
VIII+ |
| 7b |
VIII+ |
E5,6b |
5.12b |
27 |
IX- |
| 7c |
IX- |
E6,6b |
5.12c |
29 |
IX+ |
| 7c+ |
IX |
E6,6c |
5.13a |
32 |
X |
| 8a |
IX+ |
E7,7a |
5.13c |
40 |
X+ |
| 8b+ |
X |
E8,7a |
5.14a |
|
XI- |
| 8c |
X+ |
E9,7b |
|
|
|
| 8c+ |
|
|
|
|
|
| 9a |
|
|
|
|
|
|